Soil Fundamentals

• Test soil before amending — pH and nutrients determine what to add, not guessing
• Most plants prefer pH 6.0-7.0 — blueberries need acidic (4.5-5.5), lavender needs alkaline
• Compost fixes almost everything — improite clay drainage, sandy retention, feeds soil life
• Never work wet soil — compacts structure, takes years to recover
• Mulch 2-3 inches around plants — retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates temperature

Watering Mistakes

• Deep infrequent > shallow frequent — trains roots to grow deep, builds resilience
• Morning watering best — leaves dry before night, reduces fungal disease
• Water soil, not leaves — wet foliage invites disease, wastes water
• Wilting in afternoon heat is normal — check morning, if still wilted then water
• Container plants dry faster — may need daily watering in summer

Planting Timing

• Last frost date is starting point — count back for seed starting, forward for transplant
• Soil temperature matters more than air — cold soil rots seeds, use thermometer
• Cool season crops: lettuce, peas, broccoli — plant early spring and fall
• Warm season crops: tomatoes, peppers, squash — after soil reaches 60°F/15°C
• Perennials: plant in fall — roots establish over winter, less stress than spring

Spacing Reality

• Seed packet spacing is minimum — crowded plants compete, underperform
• Air circulation prevents disease — don't pack plants together
• Mature size, not transplant size — that tiny tomato becomes 6 feet tall
• Vertical growing saves space — trellises for cucumbers, beans, tomatoes
• Succession planting: stagger sowings 2-3 weeks — continuous harvest, not glut

Fertilizer Basics

• N-P-K: Nitrogen (leaves), Phosphorus (roots/flowers), Potassium (overall health)
• More is not better — overfertilizing burns roots, causes leggy growth
• Organic slow-release preferred — feeds soil life, not just plants
• Heavy feeders (tomatoes, corn) need more — light feeders (beans, herbs) need less
• Stop fertilizing 4-6 weeks before first frost — don't encourage tender growth

Pest Management

• Identify before treating — wrong treatment wastes time, may harm beneficials
• Healthy plants resist pests better — soil health is pest prevention
• Beneficial insects: ladybugs eat aphids, wasps parasitize caterpillars — don't kill all bugs
• Physical barriers first: row covers, handpicking, water spray
• Pesticides last resort — even organic ones kill beneficials

Common Pest Signs

Pruning Principles

• Clean cuts: sharp tools, just above node or bud — ragged cuts invite disease
• Prune spring bloomers after flowering — they set buds on old wood
• Prune summer bloomers in late winter — they bloom on new growth
• Remove dead/diseased/crossing branches first — the 3 Ds
• Never remove more than 1/3 at once — stresses plant, triggers excessive regrowth

Composting

• Browns (carbon): dry leaves, cardboard, straw — provide structure
• Greens (nitrogen): kitchen scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds — provide nutrients
• Ratio: 3 parts brown to 1 part green — too green = smelly, too brown = slow
• Turn every 1-2 weeks — aeration speeds decomposition
• Finished when dark, crumbly, earthy smell — 2-6 months depending on method

Season Extension

• Cold frames: unheated mini greenhouse — extends season 4-6 weeks each end
• Row covers: frost protection to ~28°F/-2°C — lighter grades for pest barrier
• Mulch heavily before frost — protects roots of perennials
• Succession plant cold-hardy crops in fall — spinach, kale, garlic
• Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplant date — lighting critical

Container Gardening

• Drainage holes mandatory — no rocks in bottom, just holes
• Potting mix, not garden soil — garden soil compacts, drains poorly in pots
• Size matters: tomatoes need 5+ gallons, herbs can use smaller
• Containers dry fast — may need twice-daily watering in heat
• Feed more frequently — nutrients wash out with watering

Planning Principles

• Right plant, right place — sun/shade, wet/dry requirements must match site
• Group by water needs — don't mix drought-tolerant with water-lovers
• Native plants easier — adapted to local conditions, support local wildlife
• Start small, expand later — better to maintain small garden well than large garden poorly
• Keep garden journal — what worked, what failed, when planted